Day 6–The Cliffs of Moher and the Franciscan Friary in Ennis

by friar Bob Roddy, OFM Conv.

Today, we journeyed to one of the most spectacular sites on Ireland’s west coast, the Cliffs of Moher. They run for about 9 miles and vary in height from 390 feet to 702 feet. As you can see, the day was overcast with a bit of fog, but we had a lovely view of this beautiful site. It’s a bit of a climb, but well worth it. The cliffs reminded me of the Palisades on the North Shore of Lake Superior in Minnesota. Having grown up in Nebraska, along the Missouri River, I was faintly reminded of the river bluffs that were just north of our family farmhouse. Conor, our pilgrimage guide/escort alerted us to a tragedy that had happened at the cliffs the day before; a 12 year old boy had become separated from his family. The boy climbed over the protective barrier and fell to his death. Emergency services were still working to recover his body. Many of us whispered a prayer for him and his family.

From the Cliffs we journeyed to the town of Ennis a small town in County Clare, which is home to two important Franciscan sites: the ruins of an ancient Franciscan Friary and a nearby church served by the Friars. The Office of Public Works guide gave us an in depth tour of the site in which she explained that despite the suppression of religious orders by King Henry VIII, the friars remained at this site under the protection of the O’Brien family. Sadly, as the influence of the O’Briens waned, the friars were forced out of the church, friary, and cloister. The property was taken over by the Church of Ireland for many years, but eventually it became too expensive and too challenging to maintain. It was only relatively recently that the property was returned to the friars, who in turn, gave the property to the Irish state. The property is now maintained by the Office of Public Works.

One major benefit at the site was that a roof had been installed relatively recently and the roof protected the interior carvings, which our guide showed us. Our guide and Fr. Steve had an engaging conversation about one carvings, nicknamed Ecce homo, which had a plethora of symbolism in it.  There were few other visitors at the site, so we had it mostly to ourselves. Behind the ruins of the church the friars have been given space to bury their friars, another gesture of reconciliation between the friars and the Church of Ireland.

We then walked to the current Franciscan church in Ennis for Mass which celebrated the Feast of St. James the Apostle. The Pilgrimage of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain has become an increasingly popular destination for pilgrims of all persuasions. It was a wonderful bit of synchronicity that we celebrated the patron saint of one of the great pilgrimage sites in Europe.

It was a long day for all of us, and because of our late arrival we ate a late dinner, which seemed to take longer than other meals, but it was no less enjoyable for us. Tomorrow, we journey to Knock, where in 1879 the Blessed Mother appeared on the gable wall of the parish church; St. Joseph and St. John the Evangelist were seen on either side of her. It is one of the most beloved pilgrimage sites in Ireland.